Bones or steels are used in a garment to keep the cloth sections to the shape they are cut. It is the shape of the cloth sections and the use of a sufficient number of bones which will not bend edgewise that determine the figure moulding value of the garment.
The number of bones used in a garment vary according to size and other conditions. In every garment there are certain seams that must be covered with boning. In the larger garments additional bones are used between the seams, and their number depends upon the measurements.
The difference between light, medium and heavy boning is in the number of bones used, the number depending upon the kind of boning ordered and the size of the garment. Sometimes in corsets boned "heavy," we may use at the side a broad steel, called a "side steel," instead of the ordinary narrow bone.
If the client is heavy and has broken bones in previous garments, or if the client prefers extra boning, "Heavy" boning may be ordered. In most cases "Medium" boning is sufficient.
If, for any reason, the client cannot be comfortable with a normal number of bones, the garment may be ordered "Bone light." To use fewer bones than we normally supply makes the garment less efficient as a support.
As explained in the description of the various garments, some have a certain number of bones, placed according to the needs of the design. In every case it has as few or as many bones as should be used.
Front lacing without clasp, hooks and eyes, button front, or invalid clasp will make the garment much lighter and more pliable than when regular clasps are used.
There are various styles of lacing and fastening. The description of each kind of garment tells what styles of lacing or fastening are available for that garment.
We recommend this style of lacing as best suited for all garments which adjust with a lacer. As the term implies, there is a lacing at the front of the garment, but no clasp. The absence of a clasp makes the front lighter and more simple, and eliminates the need for any hooks below the boning.
This style of lacing has a very definite advantage in that the client must adjust the lacer every time the garment is placed on the figure. This means that the client must "Adjust the garment daily," as the Company has always advocated.
This style of lacing is made with one narrow bone in front of the eyelets on each side, and one wider, heavier steel, known as a "Blank Steel" in back of the eyelets. (See Figure 44.)
For those wishing a very light front, narrow bones may be substituted for the blank steels. When this is wanted, check space for "Step-in" and write "Omit blank steels" in space for "Remarks."
This style has lacing in front, with clasp to the right of lacer. To the left of the lacer are two blank steels which correspond in length, width, and stiffness, to the two parts of the clasp on the opposite side. (See Figure 45.)
When this style is ordered, the "Length Cloth at Front" measurement must be considered in connection with the "Length Front Bones" measurement in order to avoid having more than 62 inches of cloth below the clasp. If a cut-out is not wanted, or is impractical because of the use of front elastic gores, the increased number of hooks below clasp becomes awkward and unsightly. The "Step-in" style is better because there are no hooks.
FRONT LACE WITH CLASP
BACK LACE CORSET
This style has the lacing in back, with clasp at centre front. (See Figure 46).
Front clasps come only in half-inch lengths, such as 5½, , 6, 6½, 7, 7½, 8½, 9, 9½ and up. Regular clasps are all of the same thickness and stiffness. Flexible top, or thin top clasps, are more flexible at both ends than the rest of the clasp. Invalid clasps are very thin, extremely flexible, and comparatively fragile. They are not suited for active or stout clients.
Corsets made with front clasp have hooks below the clasp. These hooks complete the fastening of the two parts of the clasp sections.
The button front is a soft finish for a corset fastening. Figure 47 shews how the fastening is arranged for the front lace corset. The same method is used with the back lace corset, the lacer being omitted from the front.
Give the "Length Front Bones" as usual, and place an "X" mark on the order from after "Button Front."
The hook and eye fastening is recommended for clients who have no figure problems and who have a firm flat abdomen. Measurements must be absolutely accurate, as there is no adjustment. The opening is placed at the side front and extends from top to bottom of the garment. (See Fig. 48.) No cut-out can be made with hook and eye fastening.
Do not order Hook and Eye fastening if the sacro-iliac support is needed in the Spencerette and Gym Corset.
Spencer hose supporters are designed to hold the stockings without damage, and with proper care give months of service. Hose supporters give best service when the elastic is long enough to give the necessary stretch without breaking the rubber strands.
The shortest supporter we recommend will measure 3 inches from the end of the elastic that is sewed to the garment, to the rubber button. The length of the garment and the length of the hose should be so regulated that the supporter does not have to be shorter.
The hip hose supporters are made according to the length given on the order by the corsetière, and those at front are made in proportion.
Unless other instructions are given, hose supporters without adjusting buckles will be supplied. Most clients prefer hose supporters without the adjusting buckle as this eliminates much of the bulk. Adjustment of the length should be unnecessary if "Length of Hip Hose Supporters" measurement is given correctly.
When hose supporters with the adjusting buckles are wanted, write in the space for "Remarks"—"Adjustable H. S."
Corsets made with front elastic gores need only four hose supporters, one at each hip and two at the front.
Extra hose supporters at front are used primarily to hold down the loose part of the skirt next to the cut-out: As corsets made with front elastic gores have no cut-out, the extra front hose supporters are unnecessary.
DETACHABLE HOSE SUPPORTERS
Detachable Hose Supporters are used on Spencer Belts which are intended for both day and night wear. Check "Detachable Hose Supporters" on order.
The fastener used is comfortable, secure, easily operated, and absolutely inconspicuous under clothing.
The sketches in Fig. 49 shew you how to operate the fastener.
No. 1. Hold the two parts parallel.
No. 2. Slip the long end of the bar-B-on the supporter into the long tubular end-A-of the part attached to the garment.
No. 3. Swing hose supporter up against the corset or belt until the short end of the bar-C-drops back of the raised lip-D.
No. 4. Drop hose supporter.
To detach-reverse operations.
All corsets more than 12 inches long below waist should have elastic gores at bottom. The size, shape, and exact position must be left to our designers. They may be ordered at front or back for all Spencer corsets.
We recommend that elastic gores at bottom of corset be placed at front to allow for the spread of the thighs when client is seated.
The use of front elastic gores makes a cut-out unnecessary. The use of a cut-out would offset to some extent the effectiveness of the elastic gores, as the lowest part of the gore would be drawn back toward the hip instead of stretching when the client is seated.
On corsets with hook and eye fastening, the elastic gores will always be placed in front, as there can be no cut-out on such garments.
If neither "front" nor "back" is checked on order form and corset is longer than 12 inches below waist, front elastic gores will be supplied.
As already explained, a cut-out or front elastic gores should be used to allow for the spread of the thighs when the client is seated. Unless some such allowance is made, the corset will be forced up on the figure when the client is seated, because the figure is always larger through the thighs when seated than when standing.
If the spread at the thighs is unusually great when the client is seated, a short elastic lacer for use below the clasp may also be ordered in addition to a cut-out or front elastic gores. These lacers are threaded as in Figures 50 and 51. To order, check space for "Elastic Lacer Below Clasp."
When this space is checked on a back lace corset order, all eyelets will be supplied below clasp, instead of eyelets and hooks.
ELASTIC LACER BELOW CLASP
ELASTIC LACER BELOW CLASP
BACK LACE CORSET
Certain garments such as Spencerbands and Spencerettes are designed with an elastic band at the top. When ordering such garments, no special notation is necessary to get this feature.
Upon request, a Gym or Dress Corset may be ordered with elastic at top, without extra charge, if height does not exceed 1½ in. at any point above waist. Check "Elastic Top" on order.
When "Elastic Top" is ordered, the corset will be made with an elastic gore at top, extending from under arm to first seam. On such orders, the difference between the height above waist at front and under bust cannot be more than ½ inch, or more than 1½ inches between the under arm and under bust heights, as the selvege edge of the elastic cannot be curved. The elastic top is not practical on corsets that are very high above waist.
The number of tapes on the supporting section of the Supporting Corset or Spencer Belt may not be specified by the corsetière. The measurements for the order absolutely control the size and shape of the supporting section and that, in turn, determines the number of tapes and slides.
There are two abnormal conditions when special tapes may be used to advantage.
When the client is very large and the abdomen protrudes, it is sometimes possible to get better uplift by adding an extra tape at bottom which has an abrupt upward slant and is attached to an extra slide set at a different angle than the regular slides. (See Fig. 52.) We attach this tape when order indicates need: You may order for any special cases by marking "Uplift Tape" on order.
When the figure is slight and the abdomen is flat, it sometimes helps to keep the belt down by placing an extra tape straight across from the lowest point to centre of front. This tape attaches to an extra slide set lower and straighter than the regular slides. (See Fig. 53.)
We attach this tape when order indicates need. You may order for any special cases by marking "Extra Straight Tape" on order.
Hernia tabs or perineal straps do away with the need for this special tape. It is also unnecessary on the Sacro-iliac Belt, as the lowest tape from the sacro-iliac section comes in approximately the same position as the extra straight tape would come.
For men who are thin or have to wear a belt both day and night, or for women who have to wear a belt for both day and night, it is necessary to use some form of perineal strap to prevent the belt from slipping up on the figure.
|Fig. 54||Fig. 55|
Experience has shewn that such a perineal strap, as pictured in Figs. 54 and 55, and which is permanently attached to the lower edge of the supporting section and is adjustably fastened at the back with the tape and slide, is most satisfactory.
Another type of perineal strap is shewn in Fig. 56. It consists of a piece of rubber tubing which is attached to the belt at both front and back edges as shewn in the illustration. This type of strap may be detached at will.
When the belt is for a man and waist measurement is 32 inches or less, we always attach perineal straps. The rubber tube type of strap may be had if you specify "Detachable Perineal Straps." We will furnish perineal straps of either type on larger sized belt when specified. There is no charge for perineal straps on a man's belt of any size.
If the order is for a woman and the belt is to be worn both day and night, check "Detachable Perineal Straps" (See Fig. 56) and "Detachable Hose Supporters." (See Fig. 49.)
Hose supporters are always furnished on a woman's belt unless order directs otherwise. When perineal straps are used on a belt for a woman, there is an extra charge for the straps.