CHAPTER 6

Method of Measuring

The actual measuring process is simple.   It is simply a case of taking measurements at certain points as indicated by the pins you have already placed.

The tape measure should never be pulled so tightly that it cuts into the flesh.
 

WAIST MEASUREMENT


Fig. 26
Size Waist

"Size Waist"--Client standing.   The tape measure is already in place at the waistline.   It has been drawn snugly, but not tightly, straight around the smallest part of the figure and parallel with the floor.   The point at which the teeth of the buckle grip the tape is the actual waist measurement.   Give exact measurement.   (See Figure 26.)
 

HIP MEASUREMENT


Fig. 27
Size Hip

"Size Hip"--Client standing.   Put the tape under pins already placed seven inches below waist and draw snugly, but not tightly.   Give exact measurement.   (See Figure 27.)

If the measurement is taken either above or below, the 7 inch point, the result will not be satisfactory. Do not attempt to get a tighter fit through this area by pulling the tape so tightly that it will cut into the figure.   Remember that you have already controlled the figure as you wish it to be held in the new garment.

This measurement should be given for Especially Designed Bandeaux even though bandeau will not extend seven inches below waist.   We will determine correct size for bottom edge of bandeau from measurements and description of figure.
 

LENGTH CLOTH BELOW WAIST AT BACK


Fig. 28
Length Cloth at Back

"Length Cloth at Back"--Client standing.   Measure from the centre of the tape which is around waist, down to the pin which indicates the bottom edge of the new garment at side back.   It is important that you have the tape measure follow the curve of the figure.   (See Figure 28.)   This measurement averages 14½ inches to 15 inches.

If, for any reason, the garment is to be shorter or longer than the distance from the waist to the crease where leg and buttock join, order as follows :--Give the measurement in the space for "Length Cloth at Back" that you wish followed in making the garment.   Then in the space for "Remarks" write "Length from waist to `crease' is ----- inches."

Unless you give this measurement as instructed, the designer will not get a true picture of the length of the figure below waist at back.
 

LENGTH CLOTH BELOW WAIST AT HIP


Fig. 29
Length Cloth at Hip

"Length Cloth at Hip"--Client standing.   Measure from centre of tape which is around the waist down to the pin indicating bottom of garment at hip.   (See Figure 29.)

Depend upon the pin used to outline the bottom of the garment to indicate where this measurement should stop. While the pin for the length at hip is usually placed about 1 inch further down on the figure than the pin used to indicate the back length, the number of inches for the length at hip may be the same or even less than the number of inches for the back length. This is because the curve of the figure is often greater at back than at sides.
 

LENGTH OF HIP HOSE SUPPORTERS


Fig. 30
Length Hip Hose Supporters

"Length Hip H. S."--Client standing.   Measure down from the pin indicating the bottom of the garment at hip, to the point where the hose supporter button will come just below the top edge of the stocking.   (See Figure 30.)   The length of the hip hose supporters will be made according to this measurement, with other hose supporters to match.   The length of a hose supporter is the number of inches from the end of elastic that is attached to the garment, to the rubber button.
 

LENGTH CLOTH BELOW WAIST AT FRONT


Fig. 31
Length Cloth at Front

"Length Cloth at Front"--Client standing.   Measure straight down from centre of tape around waist to pin indicating bottom edge of new garment at front.   (See Figure 31.)

The length at front should be at least 1 inch shorter than the length at hip. For best proportions plan to have the front 1 inch shorter than the hip on a small figure, increasing to as much as 2½ inches shorter than the hip on a larger figure.

When ordering a belt, this measurement will be the same as "Waist to Pubic Bone" because the front section of the belt extends down only to the top of the pubic bone.

LENGTH FROM WAIST TO PUBIC BONE


Fig. 32
Waist to Pubic Bone

"Waist to Pubic Bone"--Client standing.   Measure straight down from the centre of tape around the waist to the top of pubic bone.   (See Figure 32.)

When there is a large development of flesh over the pubic bone, so that it is impossible to locate the pubic bone itself, determine how far down on the figure the client would be able to wear a belt at centre front, and give this as the "Waist to Pubic Bone" measurement.

After taking this measurement, remove all pins below waist and have client sit down for other measurements.
 

HEIGHT ABOVE WAIST TO FULL PART OF BUST


Fig. 33
Waist to Full Part of Bust
(For Spencer-Alls and Especially Designed Bandeaux)

"Waist to Full Part of Bust"--Client standing.   Measure from pin shewing full part of bust down to centre of tape which is around waist. Be sure to follow the curve of the figure as it is held by the figure controlling garment.   If you let the tape measure run straight down from the fullness of the bust to the waist, without having it follow the figure controlling garment under the bust, the measurement will be too short. (See Figure 33.)

This measurement averages 5 inches.
 

HEIGHT ABOVE WAIST AT FRONT


Fig. 34
Height at Front
(For Spencer-Alls and Especially Designed Bandeaux Use the Following Method)

"Height at Front"--Client standing.   Measure from pin which indicates the top edge of the garment at the point where the shoulder strap is attached, down to centre of tape which is around waist. Do not take this measurement at centre front. It is important to follow all curves of the figure as it is held by the figure controlling garment.   The tape should follow the same line as when taking the "Waist to Full Part of Bust" measurement, but instead of starting at the full part of the bust, the tape is started at the pin indicating the top of the new garment. (See Figure 34.)
 

TOP EDGE OF GARMENT MEASUREMENT


Fig. 35
Top Edge
(Not Taken for Spencer-Alls and Bandeaux)

"Top Edge"--Client seated.   Draw the tape smoothly (so that no wrinkles are left in tape) but not tightly, over the pins indicating where top edge of the garment is to come.   Give exact measurement. (See Figure 35.)   If centre front is more than i inch higher than under bust (and we advise against it) do not follow the line of pins up to a high point at centre of front, but measure straight across at the under bust height.
 

BUST MEASUREMENT

Size Bust
Fig. 36
Size Bust
(For Spencer-Alls and Bandeaux)

"Size Bust"--Client seated.   Draw the tape smoothly (so that no wrinkles are left in tape) but not tightly, over the pins indicating the full part of bust.   The tape measure should follow into the depression between the breasts.   (See Figure 36.)
 

HEIGHT ABOVE WAIST AT BACK

Height at Back
Fig. 37
Height at Back

"Height at Back"--Client seated.   Measure from pin indicating where top of garment is to come at side back (which is the highest point of garment at back) down to centre of tape which is around the waist.   Average height, 3½ inches for corsets;   5 to 7 inches for Spencer-Alls and Bandeaux.   (See Figure 37.)

For large figures or figures with full back lines, a garment should be higher at the back than for smaller or straighter figures.

For small figures or figures with scant back lines, the garment may be lower than average.
 

HEIGHT ABOVE WAIST AT UNDER ARM

Height Under Arm
Fig. 38
Height Under Arm

"Height Under Arm"--Client seated.   Measure from pin indicating where top of garment is to come at under arm down to the centre of the tape which is around the waist. Average height 2½ inches for Corsets ;   5 to 5½ inches for Spencer-Alls and Bandeaux.   (See Figure 38.)

Except on large figures or when the height at back is high in proportion to the front, the under arm measurement for corsets should be a little higher than the front.
 

HEIGHT ABOVE WAIST UNDER BUST

Height Under Bust
Fig. 39
Height Under Bust
(Not Taken for Spencer-Alls and Bandeaux)

"Height Under Bust"--Client seated.   Measure from pin indicating where top of garment is to come at under bust down to centre of tape which is around waist.   (See Figure 39.)

With the prevailing style, it is seldom that a client wishes a garment to come high enough to touch the bust.

If for any reason a garment is made high enough to touch the bust, it should come well up over the full part of bust to prevent "cutting in."

HEIGHT ABOVE WAIST AT FRONT


Fig. 40
Height at Front

"Height at Front"--Client seated.   Measure from the pin indicating the top of the garment at front down to the centre of the tape which is at waist.   (See Figure 40.)   The average corset is 1½ to 2 inches above waist at front.

When the figure is large and the flesh is soft, it is necessary for the garment to be higher above waist at front than when the figure is smaller or the flesh is firm.   This is because there is a tendency for the flesh to work up, and if the garment is too low, the figure will enlarge at the waist in front and the flesh will bulge over the top of the garment.

LENGTH CLASP OR FRONT BONES BELOW WAIST

Length Front Bones
Fig. 41
Length Front Bones

"Length Front Bones"--Client seated.   Measure from centre of tape which is at waist down as far as clasp or fxont bones can be worn. This measurement should be taken at point where clasp or bones will actually come on figure.   For a back lace corset it will be at centre front, and for all other garments it will be two and one-half inches from centre front. (See Figure 41.)   This measurement averages 7 to 7½ inches.

When taking this measurement two and one-half inches from centre front, measure well down into the crease at groin. Otherwise measurement will be too short.
 

LENGTH BONES BELOW WAIST AT BACK


Fig. 42
Length Back Bones

"Length Back Bones"---Client seated.   Measure next to centre back from centre of tape which is at waist down to within one inch of the chair.   Be sure to follow the curve of the figure.   (See Figure 42.)   This measurement averages 11 to 11½ inches.
 

LENGTH CUT-OUT


Fig. 43
Length Cut-out

"Length Cut-out"---A cut-out is designed to permit additional room through the lower part of the garment when the wearer is seated. It is not needed, nor is it practical, when elastic gores are used below waist in front or when hooks and eyes are used in place of a clasp.

When a cut-out is ordered, it should measure about half the distance between end of front bones and lower edges of the cloth at front. (See Figure 43.) This measurement averages 3 inches.