| I, WILLIAM LOUIS DE
NORMANVILLE, of 6, Clarendon Crescent, Leamington,
in the County of Warwick, Civil Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows :-- The main object and effect of this invention is to provide waist belts, corsets, or similar garments or articles so constructed that when applied they control the form of the figure or waist, or in other words cause an alteration in the form of the figure or waist, reducing it at the points desired, which in most cases will be at the sides, whilst allowing its expansion if required at those points where the extra size is not of so much moment or so perceptible, the circumference remaining, if desired, approximately the same. Under this invention a belt or corset is so made that when applied it reduces the waist at the sides or in transverse diameter and thereby changes a figure or waist which is not round into one that approximately is so. Such a belt or corset is so made that when it is applied and fastened it imparts local pressure upon the sides of the waist, viz., at the diameter to be reduced in such a manner that it effects the end sought without necessarily further constricting the waist generally. A belt under this invention may, in one form, consist of metallic or equivalent springs running horizontally round a portion of the waist and coupled together by pliable or soft material, the spring parts being adapted to lie at the sides of the waist and to exert local and graduated pressure thereon whereby the figure may be made approximately round or of other desired form. The springs themselves may be graduated in strength, being lighter at the ends and stronger in the centre portion and in some cases the springs may have curved ends or be curved throughout. In another form the belt would be made substantially wholly of an elastic metallic or other equivalent band so formed as to exert the local pressure specified and buckled or fastened together at the ends. In another form the belt would be made partly of rigid, or approximately rigid bars, plates, or strips, at those parts where the local pressure is to be exerted and partly of pliable or soft material. In a further form the belt would consist of two or more rigid curved bars, plates, or strips hinged together and so formed and adapted as to impart the requisite local pressure at the sides of the waist or figure and produce the form of figure desired. In another modification the belt may be made of a bar, plate or strip (or a plurality of same) made in a single length and adapted to be sprung onto the waist or figure. The metallic strips, plates, bars, or springs herein referred to may be made of any desired thickness and may be plain fluted or corrugated or otherwise suitably formed so as to impart stiffness to them. They may also in some cases be used in single pieces whilst in others they may be applied in multiple one above another. In other cases they may be made wider at one part than at another, or thicker there or built up. When the strips, plates, bars or springs are connected together by pliable soft parts they may in some cases have a special curvature at their ends to avoid the formation of angles at the junction of one material with another when fitted to the waist or figure. Belts or other garments or articles having or made of two or more parts may in |
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some cases be buckled or fastened
both at back and front to adjust them and to
fasten them. Corsets according to this invention are provided with the metal (or other equivalent) strips, plates, bars or springs horizontally, or substantially horizontally or equivalently introduced, and so formed and proportioned, in strength as when applied to the figure to distribute the inward pressure unequally, that is a greater pressure would be exerted at the sides or locally than at other places whereby the required formation of figure would be produced. In the. case of corsets, bodices, or equivalent garments a belt of any of the forms specified may be attached to, introduced into, or combined with such ; or the strips, plates, bars or springs may be attached to, worked into, or combined with such in any desired manner ; or they may be mounted on suitable material so that they can be attached to corsets bodices or equivalent garments by the wearer as an outer cover or inner lining or otherwise as desired. The horizontal plates, bars, springs or strips may have extensions or projections on each side above and below to extend their bearing surface, such extensions or projections being of suitable form, strength, and elasticity. Or, the horizontal strips, plates, bars or springs may be otherwise attached to or combined with the usual vertical "bones " or strips in any suitable manner. It is to be understood that by my invention it is not necessary to reduce the circumference of the waist to produce an apparent diminution of the waist and figure in its transverse diameter which is the one to which it is principally desired to give a pleasing appearance ; for by the invention the appearance of a smaller waist may be attained without reduction of the waist measurement or circumference and consequently without discomfort or injury to the wearer. Under this invention belts, corsets, bodices, or other garments may have the parts arranged and combined differently according to requirements or to particular kinds of such garments provided with the improvements ; and also such parts may be made in different forms, sizes, and strengths and disposed in different ways without departing from the characteristics or features of the invention. Dated the 15th day of September 1891. CHEESBROUGH & ROYSTON,
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION. |
| I, WILLIAM LOUIS DE NORMANVILLE of 6 Clarendon Crescent Leamington,
in the County of Warwick, Civil Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-- The main object and effect of this invention is to provide waist belts, corsets, or similar garments or articles so constructed. than when applied they control the form of the figure or waist, or in other words, cause an alteration in the form of the figure or waist, reducing it at the points desired, namely, at the sides, whilst allowing its expansion if required at those points where the extra size is not of so much moment or so perceptible, namely, at the front and back, the cir- cumference remaining, if desired, approximately the same. Under this invention a belt or corset is se made that when applied it reduces the waist at the sides or in transverse diameter and thereby changes, a figure or waist which is not round into one that approximately is so. Such a belt or corset is so made that when applied and fastened it imparts local pressure upon the sides of the waist, viz., at the diameter to be reduced in such a manner that it effects the end sought without necessarily further constricting the waist generally. A belt under this invention may in one form consist of metallic or equivalent |
| springs running horizontally round a portion of the waist and coupled together by
pliable or soft material, the spring parts being adapted to lie at the sides of the waist and to exert local and graduated pressure thereon whereby the figure may be made approximately round. The springs themselves may be graduated in strength, being lighter at the ends and stronger in the centre portion, and in some cases the springs may have curved ends or be curved throughout. In another form the belt would be made substantially wholly of an elastic metallic, or other equivalent band, so formed as to exert the local pressure specified and buckled or fastened together at the ends. In another form the belt would be made partly of rigid, or approximately rigid bars, plates or strips, at those parts where the local pressure is to be exerted and partly of pliable or soft material. In a further form the belt would consist of two or more rigid curved bars, plates, or strips hinged together and so formed and adapted as to impart the requisite local pressure at the sides of the waist or figure and produce the form of figure desired. In another modification the belt may be made of a bar, plate or strip (or a plurality of same) made in a single length and adapted to be sprung on to the waist or figure. The metallic strips, plates, bars, or springs herein referred to may be made of any desired thickness and may be plain, fluted or corrugated, or otherwise suitably formed so as to impart stiffness to them. They may also in some cases be used in single pieces whilst in others they may be applied in multiple one above another. In other cases they may be made wider tat one part than at another, or thicker i there, or be built up. When the strips, plates, bars or springs are connected together by pliable or soft parts, they may in some cases have a special curvature at their ends to avoid the formation of angles at the junction of one material with another when fitted to the waist or figure. Belts or other articles or garments having, or made of, two or more parts may in some cases be buckled or fastened both at back and front to adjust them and to fasten them. Corsets according to this invention are provided with the metal (or other equivalent) strips, plates, bars or springs horizontally, or substantially horizontally or equivalently introduced, and so formed and proportioned in strength as when applied to the figure to distribute the inward pressure unequally, that is a greater pressure would be exerted at the sides or locally than at other places whereby the required formation of figure would be produced. In the case of corsets, bodices, or equivalent garments a belt of any of the forms specified may be attached to, introduced into, or combined with such; or the strips, plates, bars or springs may be attached to, worked into, or combined with such in any desired manner ; or they may be mounted on suitable material so that they can be attached to corsets, bodices or equivalent garments by the wearer as an outer cover or inner lining, or otherwise as desired. The horizontal plates, bars, springs or strips may have extensions or projections on each side above and below to extend their bearing surface, such extensions or projections being of suitable form, strength, and elasticity. Or, the horizontal strips, plates, bars or springs may be attached to or otherwise combined with the usual vertical " bones " or strips in any suitable manner. It is to be understood that by my invention it is not necessary to reduce the cir- cumference of the waist to produce a diminution of the waist and figure in its transverse diameter, which is the one to which it is desired to give an improved and more pleasing appearance ; for by the invention the appearance of a smaller waist may be attained without reduction of the waist measurement or circumference and consequently without discomfort or injury to the wearer. In the drawings which serve to illustrate my invention I shew several forms or |
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modifications thereunder, by which the effect herein -specified is produced. The same letters and figures of reference are used throughout the views of the drawings to denote the same, like, or equivalent parts wherever they occur.
Figure 1 is a plan illustrating diagrammatically a waist belt according to this invention, and the effect produced thereby ; and Figure 2 is a view, that is a plan, of a similar belt by itself, with its ends fastened.
In Figure 1, a designates the metallic portions of the waist belt; n represents diagrammatically the form of the figure at the waist produced by ordinary belts or corsets (which I call the "natural " form), that is approximately an ellipse; and o represents diagrammatically the form of the figure produced by the application of the belt, that is circular, or approximating to a circle. These three letters a, n and o, are used throughout the drawings to denote those parts or things which they are used to represent in the above figures. The parts a shewn in Figure 1 consist of flat or slightly curved springs of steel, or other suitable material, of' convenient width and thickness; for instance the width may be about 1" (one inch), whilst the thickness at the centre may be from about 20 to 25 imperial wire gauge, if made of spring steel, the strength however being a matter of personal taste according to the amount of reduction or alteration of the figure needed or desired. It will be observed in this figure, that the springs a are straight and tapered down from the centre towards both ends, the object of which is to obtain stiffness or the greatest strength in the centre, that is at the parts which are required to press with greatest pressure upon the sides of the waist, to give the desired local compression and reduction. At the ends of the springs a, I provide bands b, two of which are provided with ordinary buckles c, through which the free ends of the others are passed; whereby tension is put upon the belt by the wearer and it is brought up to the figure. The bands b may be made of leather, woven web, or suitable textile or other material, and may cover entirely the metallic parts a, or go outside or inside same, from end to end, and be sewn or otherwise suitably fastened thereto; or they may be fastened to each end of the metallic parts instead of being continuous. On drawing the belt together round the waist, the ends of the springs a will be drawn towards each other, back and front; till they assume a curved form, and together with the other parts of the belt, lie closely against the body: By the construction and form of the springs in their natural condition, it will be evident, as already stated, that the tendency of the springs is to press locally with the greatest pressure on each side of the waist, and that this pressure decreases gradually towards the back and front. In other words when the belt is on, the tendency of the springs is to straighten themselves, and the part of the springs about which the movement would take place, if freed, being the centre, where they rest upon the sides of the waist, a constant localised pressure is being brought upon the sides, and thereby they are locally contracted and the width of the waist reduced, extension taking place front and back. The transverse diameter is thereby reduced, whilst the front to back diameter is increased, so that the waist approximates the more pleasing circular form without reduction of the circumference, and without incon- venience or injury to the wearer. These belts are usually fastened on over the ordinary corsets, and thereby the localised pressure thereon not only reduces the transverse diameter of the waist at the parts where the springs lie (that is for a vertical distance equal to the depth of the springs), but transmits the circumferentially localised pressure vertically through ; the "bones" of the corset, thereby obtaining a graduated localised pressure on each side of the waist starting from the maximum at the smallest part of the waist, and diminishing upwards and downwards, and resulting in an approximately circular form at the waist and a graceful and pleasing expansion upwards and downwards therefrom. The front and back buckles are provided to allow the springs to be adjusted to |
| their best positions for different waists. Thereafter the back one may be left
buckled permanently.
The parts or springs a in Figures 1 and 2 may be of the same width throughout but thickest in the centre, and tapering away, as shewn, towards both ends. Or they may be of the same thickness throughout and reduced towards the ends in width, or in quantity of metal or other material in any other suitable way (such fox instance as in the manner set forth with reference to Figures 10, 11 and 12, herein- after described); in fact it is not of much moment what particular form or con. struction the springs take, so long as the end. specified is obtained, namely, the greatest strength provided in the centre parts, diminishing towards the extremities. This of course applies to cases in which the parts a are in the form of springs. As stated above, Figure 2 shews a belt similar to that in Figure 1, in its natural form (i.e. off the waist) when drawn up to and buckled together at a point about which it would reach if applied to the waist circumference, that is, its circumference as fastened is equal to that of the waist shewn in Figure 1. There is, however, in this belt, a slight modification as to form; viz., the extremities of the springs a are slightly turned inwards. This construction is provided in order to prevent the extremities or points of the springs from standing away from the figure and producing corners or an irregularity of form in the waist. This feature may be applied in any case where it may be deemed desirable or necessary, whether the parts a be of spring construction or rigid, as hereinafter described, and whether curved or straight.
Referring now to Figure 3, the belt shewn therein is constructed with rigid or approximately rigid metallic parts a a, the same effect however being produced as by the springs shewn in Figures l and 2. In this case, the rigid metallic parts a a are formed to a curvature of larger radius than that of the "natural" curve at the sides of the waist. For example, this curve may approximate to, but preferably be of rather larger radius than the circular curve o, corresponding to the waist measurement, to allow for any slight bending. In the figure this radius is designated a', whilst the radius of the curve of the sides of the waist is designated n', and that of the circular curve o'. When this belt is applied to the waist, the pliable textile or other bands b of the belt are drawn up together as set forth with reference to Figure 1, and the rigid metallic pieces a are thereby drawn towards each other, with the result that local pressure is applied at the sides of the waist, that is in the direction of the largest diameter, and this diameter is reduced, whilst the smaller diameter; that is that through the front and back, is increased, and the circular form or curve repre- sented by o is approximated, the rigid pieces a a lying or fitting closely on the sides of the corset without protuberance or inconvenience of any kind. As a general statement of the nature of this invention it may be stated that a person's figure, by the application of this invention, is transformed more or less by the pressure thereby brought to bear on the figure, from one of the form of an ellipse produced by ordinary belts or corsets (as represented by n), to one of a more agreeable appearance, namely, that of a true circle (as represented by o), reducing the width of the waist (that is the diameter from side to side), and thereby improving the figure without reducing the circumference, and without causing inconvenience or injury to the wearer.
In the modification shewn in Figure 4 the belt is made out of a continuous piece of steel spring, fastened together at its ends by the stud c fitting into apertures c1 in the other end of the belt. A belt of this description is made with the parts which are required to press with greatest pressure upon the sides of the waist, and which are adapted to bring about the effect specified, stronger than the other parts. In Figure 4 the additional strength is shewn as produced by thickening the sides. In Figure 5 a belt of this character is shewn extended in a straight line in which the parts (i.e. at the sides of the waist) which are required to exert the greatest or local pressure, are made deeper than the others, in lieu of being thicker, |
| they would give to the figure when on and fixed, whilst the form of the "natural"
figure produced by corsets without my invention applied, that is, without the parts a, is represented by the ellipse n. It is to be understood, however, that other forms or constructions of the parts a, such as herein specified, may be used in corsets in lieu of spring pieces such as just specified. The spring pieces a shewn are arranged with the central and stronger parts outside those vertical " bones " e of the corset E which rest upon the sides of the waist, and to which the local pressure is to be imparted or applied, whilst the ends of the springs a are best taken through the garment under the front and back "bones" e'. These " bones," then, hold down the ends of the metal springs or parts a which tend to spring out, whilst the vertical side bones distribute the pressure of the central parts of the springs over a large area, so that not only is the local pressure exerted upon the parts covered by the springs a, but it is dis tributed a considerable distance up and down at the sides of the corset, and effects thereby a localised, and at the same time graduated, reduction of the side diameter of the waist, in the manner herein specified. In this figure, f represents the textile material of the corsets by which the bones e' and springs a are retained, while g are the ordinary front and back busks of the corset or garment. The parts a, whether elastic or rigid, as herein described, may be fastened in the corsets as shewn in the figure, by sewing them in, or otherwise, and if desired, in some cases, they may be riveted or otherwise connected to the vertical "bones" e or e', or both; or they may be in some cases contained in textile coverings, and with 'these coverings fastened in or to the corsets as described.
The springs or pieces a, whether for belts or corsets or other garments, may be made strong by making them fluted or, corrugated in form, as shewn in cross section in Figures 10 and 11. In such cases the fluting or corrugation may be gradually the in depth from the centre to near both ends, by which con- struction the stiffness or strength thereof is gradnated, the object and effect of which is hereinbefore stated. The section of metallic belt pieces a shewn in Figure 10 may also be used in connection with rigid belts, such as those set forth with reference to Figure 3 and Figure 6, as well as to spring belts, for the purpose of preventing the edges from chafing or becoming uncomfortable to the wearer. To some forms of figure this point or feature may be important, as, for instance, for short waisted persons.
As regards stiffness or strength, however, this may be obtained and graduated in different ways. The most simple is that of graduating the thickness of metal as in: Figure 1, and that in Figure 12, in which the metal spring part a is shewn built up of several superimposed pieces of spring metal, of different lengths. Or again, the width may be graduated, the thickness being constant as shewn in Figures 13, 14: Or again, the effective pressure exerted may be graduated by forming the parts a to different or graduated curvatures, such as shewn in Figure 7. In Figures 12 and 13 the ends of the pieces a are left of full width, this is done to avoid pointed ends and possible penetration of the belt or clothes thereby.
In Figure 14 the triangular spaces marked h are formed in the springs a by cutting out triangular pieces of this form, thereby reducing the effective width and strength.
In Figure 15, the springs or stiffening pieces a are shewn used in multiple. This construction is suitable for application to broad belts, in or to which the parts a may be sewn or otherwise fastened. In such case the springs would preferably be narrow, say from 1/4 to 1/2 inch wide, placed one. above the other as shewn. This form would allow the belt to conform more to the vertical curve of the figure and in some cases tend to give greater ease of movement to the wearer. These parts a when. arranged in multiple may be graduated, or be of differential lengths, and strengths, to graduate the pressure thereof at different parts, up and down, of the figure, or |
| herein described, that is to say, waist belts, corsets, or equivalent garments or
articles adapted to be put on or applied to the waist or figure by drawing or buckling same up, or by hooking, or otherwise applying same, and so formed of or provided with horizontally arranged elastic or rigid (or approximately rigid) strips or plates, that when put on or applied to the waist or figure they exert local inward pressure at the sides of the waist, reducing thereby the transverse diameter or width of the waist, and without necessarily reducing the circumference thereof; for the purposes and with the effects specified. 2. The improved waist belts, corsets, or equivalent garments or articles, set forth respectively with reference to and shewn in the different figures of the drawings. Dated the 15th day of July 1892. CHEESBROUGH & ROYSTON, Fels. Chart. Inst. P.A.,
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