theme: Lung expanders Corset pattern


Specification forming part of Letlers Patent No. 173,611, dated February 15, 1876; application filed January 10, 1876.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, OLIVIA P. FLYNT, of Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented au Improved Bust-Supporter, of which the following is a specification:

This invention relates to a garment for ladies and misses, and is specially designed as a bust supporter and improver, to be worn next the body, or outside the under-vest, as suits the wearer; and the garment fitted to the form preyents the bast from descending uncomfortably low, or below that position on the body requisite to conform the outline of the bust to the true artistic outline of the human frame, the garment preserving and producing a more comely outline and comfortable feeling than a corset.

This garment is specially adapted to ladies having large busts, and will be used instead, and take the place of, a corset, thereby euabling beauty of form to be preserved without lacing or otherwise injuriously pressing or binding the body.   The garment sustains the bust from the shoulders, and, at the same time, press up the lower portion of the bust and above the body under the arms, and hold or press up the lower portion of the bust.

Figure l shows the garment applied.   Fig. 2 shows the blank or piece of cloth from which it is formed; Fig. 3, a back view; Fig. 4, a modified construction of the blank, but made of, several small pieces to economize cloth; Fig. 5, a modified form of blank.

To cut the garment, the cloth is laid out on a table, and the pattern is laid on it, so that a line on the pattern extending through the middle of the shoulder-piece, b and the portion of the pattern adapted to form the upper front corner of the bust-piece, when the garment is in position, will be in substantially the line of one of the warps, and so that the blank when cut out, if folded through the center of the shoulder-piece, from the upper front corner of the bust-piece h, would be in the line of the warp, thereby enabling the garment to act most effectually to support the bust.   The blank presents its warp-threads extended in the direction of the full arrow, and each piece of cloth has, therefore, its greatest streugth in the line of the arrow, it indicating the line of the warps, and this line or direction of greatest strength is the line or direction in which the garment is subjected to greatest strain.

Referring to the blanks, b b represent the shoulder pieces; c, the curve, to fit about the neck; d, the line of the lower edge of the back of the garment, the carved lines or portons e serving for the front lower portion of the formed garment, and the bust-pieces h have for their boundary-lines at top and side the curved and straight lines g f.   The shoulder-pieces will be made to incline more or less on the line i, according to the, form of the shoulder--square or sloping--of the person to wear the garment, a square shoulder requiring more cloth, or, as indicated by the dotted line l, Fig. 2.   The blank is, preferably, slit at m m to provide for the insertion of gore-pieces to curve outward the lower portion of the garment.

In making the garment, two blanks, of the shape shown in Fig. 2, are laid together, but with the warp-line of the cloth crossed, the two arrows, full and dotted, representing substantially the warp-lines.   The bust-pieces h are then fold ed or turned upward, and the shoulder-pieces b brought or curved forward, and the curved edge g is gathered and stitched to the edgo i, the edges f, in this new position, forming the front vertical opening ot the garment, one edge being provided with butother fastenings, to engage the other edge and confine the garment to the body.   The lower edge of the garment is, preferably, bound, as at o, and the garment is stitched about its edges, confining the two blanks together, making a garment of double thickness, and with the warp of each blank extended in opposite directions, and the garment has its greatest strength in the line of greatest strain, and substantially in the line of the arrows, Figs. 1 and 3, and by reason of this arrangement of the direction of warps the garment is not liable to be stretched out of true shape, as would otherwise be the case.

The garment, Fig. 1, is of double thickness at front over the bust; but, if desired, and to form a thin, cool garment, the bust-pieces of one blank may be cut away on the line p, (see Fig. 2,) leasing but a single thickness.   These double bust-pieces are, preferably, not stitched together along their edges f, but are left open in order to form a pocket for the insertion of padding material, should it be required, to improve the outline or form of the bust, and a line of stitehing is formed, preferably, ou the line p, to define the end of the pocket.   The lower front portion of the garment is substantially smooth or ungathered, as shown in Fig. 1, so as to press closely against the lower portion of the bust, and the gathered or full part, where the bust, and shoulder-pieces join, affords space for the bust, and prevents the garment from exerting pressure from the top down ward on the bust.

Instead of making the garment from two seamless pieces, of the form shown in Fig. 2, I may form it from two pieces shaped as shown in Fig. 5, and crossed, as indicated in Fig. 4, and with warps in direction indicated in Fig. 2, and the double thickness of the bust and shoulder-pieces is made by the addition of small single pieces corresponding in form with the ends of the shoulder and bust pieces.   This modified construction presents a blank of precisely the same form as the blank in Fig. 2; and the blanks differ from each other only in the fact that one is composed of pieces seamed together, whereas the other is seamless.

This garment fits the person closely; there are no objectionable scams; it does not need whalebones or steels to keep it in place; the body is allowed to move with perfect freedom; the garment is a most comfortable and pleasant one, and by reason of its cut, as described, the shape of the garment is always preserved, and is not liable to be distorted or strained.

That portion of the garment extending over the shoulder may, if desired, be narrower than shown in Fig. l, and may be made more or less high in the neck to afford add itional chest-covering for cold weather, or may be trimmed with lace or other ornamentation.

The lower end of the garment, or the band o, is made to extend downward to a point on the body corresponding with the point at which it is desired the bust should curve outward and upward, to attain beauty of form and pleasantly support the bust.   The position of the baud, therefore; defines the lowermost position of the lower portion of the bast; and from that point upward, and preferably to a point as high as the center of the bust, the garment affords a substantial support, allowing the expansion of the upper portion of the bast into the gathered portion or toward the center.

This garment, fashioned substantially as herein set forth, effectually supports the bust from the shoulders, through the shoulder-straps forming part of the garment, and this is accomplished by reason of the novel direction and arrangement of warp and weft.   The warp extends diagonally across the back, over the shoulder, and under the arm and over the bust, or from the edges i to f; and the garment adapts itself to the contour of the body; and the silo ulder-straps fit closely to the shoulders; and the edges i, when: connected with the edge g, (the front of the garment being held together by buttons or otherwise,) acts to hold up the bust-pieces entirely across the garment, and closely to the body or bust, whereas, if the warps did not extend diagonally, as described, and the shoulder-straps were like the usual shoulder-straps, the bust-pieces would be really held up positively, or with any degree of certainty, only for a short distance close to the arms.

It is obvious that the garment, with the warp arranged in the lines described, will cause the garment to fit the body below the bust, and at the sides under and below the arms, and press against and hold up the bust from below, and pressure by the bust on the bust-pieces will cause the garment to hug closely to the body from the front of the garment, about under the arms and over the shoulder.

The garment call be worn without the slightest discomfort or restraint, by reason of the play or movement of the muscles or portions of the body over which it passes.

It will be noticed that bones, steels, eyelets, cords, and lacings, common to corsets and other bust-supporters, are entirely dispensed with, and, owing to the drawing and sustaining action of the garment; they are entirely unnecessary, and the garment under all circumstances is smooth, and without wrinkles or gathers, except where the bust-for in h is gathered on or united to the shoulder-piece b.

For the purpose of a bust-supporter only, the front edge of the garment need not be left open, but, if used as a bust-improver, the front edge may be open to receive whatever the wearer may desire to insert between the pieces of cloth h.   The device is very light and easy, and commends itself in a sanitary point of view.

In the foregoing description it has been stated that the warp runs in certain directions; but it will be evident that with goods of a width sufficient to cut the garment from across the cloth, instead of in the direction of the length of the cloth, the weft might run in the direction described for the warp, and produce the same beneficial results.

I claim—

1. A bust-supporter blank, cut substantially as described, and shown in Fig. 2 of the drawing.

2. A bust-supporter composed of two pieces, of cloth, cut substantially as described, and arranged with relation to each other to present the warps in one piece at substantially right angles to the warps in the other piece, substantially as described.

3. A bust-supporter blank, cut from a piece of cloth, and with relation to its warp and weft, to retain the warp of the fashioned blank in aline extending diagonally through the back and into a shoulder and bust piece, substantially as described.

4. A bust-supporter, composed of two blanks shaped and Put from cloth substantially as described, and with bust-pieces left separate at their edges f, to form pockets for padding, substantially as described.

5. A bust-supporter, composed of pieces of cloth having warps arranged to extend from the end of the shoulder-pieces over the shoulders, diagonally across the back, tinder the arms, and over the bust to the open front of the garment, substantially as described, the shoulder-pieces being connected with the bustpieces, as set forth, whereby the garment supports the bust from the shoulders, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.