To complete the brassiere, prepare foundation lines as given in the previous lesson and continue as follows:
Lower from A to 17, 3 inches, from B to 20, 3 inches, and cross a line from 17 to 20 out to 16. This will make a brassiere 3 inches below breast line at the back part. Now measure from 1 to 2 and 3 to 4, 4½ inches, and draw a line from 2 to 4 for thedart. From 5 to 6 is ¾ inch below waist line for long waist line and connect 6 to 7. 8 is the dart line at the long waist line. Measure from 8 to 10, ½ inch, and from 8 to 9, 1½ inches. Then divide the space of the dart height between 2 and 8, making X. Connect a curved line from X to 10 and 11 and then from X to 9 and 12, as shown on the diagram. Connect with a curve from 12 to 13, which will finish the bottom of the front.
To finish the top part of the bust, divide the space between 2 and X, making 0. Then take out each side of 2 to 14 and 15, ¼ inch, and curve from 14 and 15 to 0, as shown on diagram. Lower from 1 to C, 1 inch, and curve from C to 14, as shown on diagram, and then curve from 15 to 16. The finishing curve at the top of the front of the brassiere is a matter of taste or style, but for a simple guide for curve, draw, a straight line, as shown, from 2 to 16 and divide the space between 2 and 16, as indicated by XX. Then make curve from 15 to XX to 16, as shown on diagram.
This completes the pattern for the brassiere with all necessary seams allowed. Should there be no seams required in the center front, as the illustration shows, deduct 3/8 inch for no seam at the draft before 'cutting, as indicated by dotted line at the edge of the front from 1 to 3.
To cut out pattern, cut out back from 17, 18 and 19 and then across from 17, 20, 21 and 22. To cut out front part, cut from 16, 7, and 13 and then from 16, XX, 15, X, 9 and 12. Cut center part of the front from 14, C, 3 and from 14, 0, X, 10 and 11 to 3. Otherwise, this pattern has all necessary seams allowed.