In outlining for the body support, as in the case of the breast support, pins are placed at several points where measurements will be taken later. Whenever it is possible to do so, pins should be placed over the boning of the Control Support to be sure they do not touch the client.
The client should be standing for the following three steps :
The waist tape is already in place if measurements for breast support have been taken and the Breast Control Support left on the figure. If not, place the tape measure around client's waistline, using the same method explained in outlining for breast support (see page 50). Be sure that tape measure is parallel with the floor.
Place pins (pointing upward) exactly seven inches below waist, as follows : one at right side-hip ; one at each side-front ; one at left side-hip, and one at each side-back.
Place pins horizontally to outline the right side of the bottom edge of support as follows :
(a) One pin at right side-back at crease where the buttock joins the leg, in line with the middle of the leg (not near centre back).
(b) One pin directly under this, if support is to extend below crease, to indicate the actual length of support. This pin is usually placed 1 inch or 1½ inches below the pin at crease.
(c) One pin at right side-hip. This pin should be just slightly below the fullest part of the figure at that point. If the pin at side-hip is placed too far below the fullest part of the figure the bottom edge of the support will be loose. Extra length at this point does nothing to control the figure.
(d) One pin at centre-front in front panel or in loose end of thigh section strap. This pin should be at least one inch higher than the pin which indicates the hip length. For best proportions, plan to have the front one inch shorter than the side-hip on small figures, increasing to as much as three inches shorter than the side-hip on larger figures.
The client should stand relaxed but with shoulders back, head up and in a natural position, in a posture as nearly erect as possible while all standing measurements are taken.
The client is standing. The tape measure is already in place at the waistline (see Fig. 74). The point at which the teeth of the buckle grip the tape is the Waist Measurement. Leave tape in place until all other measurements have been taken.
The client remains standing. Put the tape measure without the buckle under the pins already placed seven inches below waist. Tape should be parallel with waistline tape (see Fig. 75).
Note : Do not attempt to get a tighter fit through this area by pulling the tape so tightly that it presses into the figure. Keep in mind that you have already controlled the figure as you wish it to appear in the new support.
Remove all pins at seven-inch point.
The client is standing. Measure from the middle of the tape at waist down to the pin which indicates the crease where buttock joins leg (see Fig. 76). This measurement is taken in line with the middle of the leg. Tape measure should follow the curve of the Control Support. Do not exaggerate the length to the crease by pressing tape and Control Support into the flesh at crease, or the Support will be too loose at bottom back.
Remove pin at crease.
Note : With figure properly controlled, this measurement will average from 12½ to 13½ inches, but may be as short as 10 inches on small figures having soft flesh.
The client is standing. Measure same as for Length to Crease measurement, but continue tape measure down to pin which indicates bottom edge of new support. This is generally 1 or 1½ inches longer than Length to Crease (see Fig. 77).
Remove pin at bottom edge at back.
The client is standing. Measure from middle of tape at waist down to pin indicating bottom of support (see Fig. 78).
The client remains standing. Measure down from the pin indicating the bottom of the support at side-hip to the point where the hose supporter button will come, just below the top edge of the stocking (see Fig. 79).
Remove pin at bottom edge at side-hip.
Other supporters will be made to match the length of hip hose supporters.
With the client standing, measure straight down from middle of tape at waist to pin indicating bottom. edge of new support at front (see Fig. 80).
Remove pin at bottom edge at front.
On the Spencer Belt, Spen-Support, or any support curved out over groin, the Length Cloth at Front will be the same as the Waist to Pubic Bone Measurement.
See note on page 78.
Have standing client hold end of tape at middle of tape at waist. Place your left hand at centre-back above buttocks to hold client steady and with your right hand, locate the top of pubic bone. Then with left hand guide tape down to top of pubic bone, as shown by tip of middle finger (see Fig. 81).
Note : The Waist to Pubic Bone Measurement determines the depth of the abdominal section of Spencer Belts or any supports curved out over groin.
It also determines the depth of the inner ptosis Section of the Abdominal Supporting Corset which normally extends from approximately 3 inches below waist to pubis, but can extend higher in case of a scar or umbilical hernia or excess abdominal flesh which requires control. If the waist to pubis measurement is too short, the inner abdominal Section will not be deep enough.
|Fig. 82 |
If the Abdomen is Pendulous : In Figure 82, the dotted line ending at " B " shows the correct method of taking the Waist to Pubic Bone Measurement when the abdomen is pendulous. Notice how the line follows the contour of the abdomen as it is controlled, down under the pendulous abdomen to the top of the pubic bone.
The abdominal supporting section would not be deep enough if the Waist to Pubic Bone Measurement were taken from the waist to point " A," as in Figure 83.
Loosen the strap of the thigh control sections on the Control Support to permit the client to be seated. To prevent Control Support from working up on the figure, ask client to hold the thigh control sections firmly as she sits down.
If the lowest strap on front panel binds at or below groin, it should be loosened and the lower edge of front panel smoothed into groin.
Outline the top edge of the support and take the remaining measurements.
For outlining top edge, and for all seated measurements, the client should sit as nearly erect as possible, with shoulders well back, hands relaxed in lap, and with feet flat on floor.
Place pins (pointing downward) to outline the top edge of the support : one pin at each side-back ; one at each under-arm ; one at each under-bust ; and one at centre-front.
Caution : In outlining for the heights above waist, avoid making all the heights the same. If they are, the straight line around the top of the support will tend to cut into the flesh. Greater comfort and better fit result if the top edge is allowed to curve in a fair shape. See the examples below of well-proportioned heights above waist for an average figure.
Average for a fairly full figure :
|Back-Up||2½ to 3½ inches|
|Under-Arm||2 to 3 inches|
|Under-Bust||Low enough to avoid touching breasts when client is seated|
|Front-Up||1½ to 2½ inches|
These measurements are given only as an example of well-pro-portioned measurements for an average full figure. They will vary according to the needs of each client.
If a support stops at the waistline or only slightly above, it may slip up on the figure when the wearer is seated. A support that slips up loses its effectiveness and is uncomfortable.
Large Figures: High enough to contain the flesh. It will be higher than average.
Small Figures: Will be lower than average.
Thin Figures With Prominent Ribs:
Elastic Gores at Top: When Elastic Gores at Top are ordered, the difference between Heights Above Waist at Under-Arm and Under-Bust should not be more than 1½ inches. Also, the difference between Height at Front and Height Under-Bust cannot be more than ½ inch, because the selvedge edge of the elastic cannot be curved.
Client remains seated for this measurement and all following measurements. Draw tape measure smoothly, but not tightly, over the pins indicating top edge of support (see Fig. 84).
Centre-front should not be more than one inch higher than under-bust. However, if centre-front is to be higher than we advise, do not follow the line of pins up to a high point at centre-front, but measure straight across at the under-bust height.
As you remove the tape measure, take out the pins at the top edge on client's left side.
The client is seated. Measure down from pin indicating top of support at side-back (which is the highest point of support at back) to middle of the tape at waist (see Fig. 85).
Remove pin at top edge at side-back.
Client remains seated. Measure down from pin indicating top of support at under-arm to middle of the tape at waist (see Fig. 86).
Remove pin at under-arm.
The client is seated. Measure down from pin indicating top of support at under-bust to middle of the tape at waist (see Fig. 87).
Remove pin at under-bust.
Note : It is seldom that a client wishes a support to extend high enough to contain the breasts. Therefore, it will always be assumed that the support is to come below the breasts unless explained otherwise under Additional Instructions on the order form.
If, for any reason, a support is ordered high enough to contain the breasts, care should be taken that it comes well up over the full part of the breast to prevent cutting in.
Client is seated. Measure down from the pin indicating the top of the support at front to the middle of the tape at waist (see Fig. 88).
Remove pin at top edge at front.
Client remains seated. Measure from centre of the tape at waist down as far as clasp or front bones can be worn (see Fig. 89). This measurement should be taken 2½ inches to the right side of centre-front.
Before taking this measurement, be sure that any abdominal flesh that protrudes into groin is held smoothly under front panel. Measure well into the crease at groin. Otherwise, the measurement will be too short.
Note : This measurement averages 7 to 8 inches.
The client is seated. At a point 1½ inches from centre of lacing space, measure down from middle of the tape at waist to the chair (see Fig. 90). Be sure to follow the curve of the figure. Subtract one inch from this measurement, and give the resulting measurement on your order form.
Note : This measurement averages 11 to 11½ inches:
When removing Breast Control Support, untie and loosen all lacers and drawstrings. Let out shoulder straps to full length, unhook back, and remove enlarging sections.
In removing the Control Support, always untie the lacer at bottom and the lacer loops. This makes the support easier to remove, and it is then ready for your next client.
When you measure a man, the measurements will ordinarily be taken over the vest and trousers, with coat and waistcoat removed. If a leather waist belt is worn instead of braces the client should be asked to remove his belt, as well as all bulky objects from his pockets. In the doctor's surgery or in the hospital, measurements may be taken over the underclothing.
The client's figure should if possible be controlled with an Emer- gency Belt, a Sample Belt, or sample Spencerflex. After the support used for control is placed loosely on the client's figure, ask him to be seated, and have him place the abdominal supporting section as low into the groin as is comfortable. He should then hold the support in this position as he stands and while you tighten the adjustment straps.
l. Place tape measure at waistline.
2. Place pins at hip, seven inches below waist, as follows : one at each side-front ; one at each side-hip, and one at each side-back.
3. With client seated, outline top edge with pins, as follows :
When Stiff or Rigid Steels are not ordered, the following suggestions for heights above waist are given for the Spencer Belt (page 139).
For the man of average size (heights may be increased for large figures) :
When Stiff or Rigid Steels (see pages 244 and 245) are ordered and a higher support is required, refer to the following pages for recommended heights above waist :
For the Posture or Sacro-iliac Support (pages 150 and 152). Height above waist 1½ to 2½ in. in front and 3 in. at back.
For Lumbosacral Support (page 153). Height above waist 4 in. in front, 5 at UA and back.
For Dorso-lumbar Support (Spinal Support), pages 230 and 231.
Do not make any deductions from the circumference measurements to allow for clothing, but place each measurement as you have taken it on the order form. The Technicians will make deductions from the circumference measurements to allow for the client's clothing.
In the few cases where measurements are taken over the underclothing, it is important that you mark the Order Form " Measured Over Underclothing."
When the abdomen is normal or scant, have client place one foot on the rung or seat of a chair to bring top of thigh about parallel to the floor. Then measure down from the middle of the tape at waistline, at a point just in front of the prominent part of the hipbone, to the groin (see Fig. 91). Add 1½ inches to the measurement you have taken and place the new total measurement in the space for " Waist to Pubis) " an Order Form.
When figure is large or abdomen pendulous, it is better to obtain an actual waist to Pubic Bone measurement. This is done by having client place the abdominal supporting section as low into the groin as is comfortable as already noted under " Controlling." If support used for controlling extends up to or above waist, place a pin at waistline at centre-front. Then, after support is removed from figure, measure from pin down to bottom edge of supporting section. This is Waist to Pubic Bone Measurement.
If support used for controlling does not extend up to waist, note the number of inches from top of support to waist. After support as removed from figure, add this amount to depth of supporting section to get Waist to Pubic Bone Measurement.
When giving the actual Waist to Pubic Bone Measurement, do not add the 12 inches.
These measurements are taken in the usual way, from out-lining pins down to middle of tape measure at waistline.
This measurement is taken 12 inches from centre-back, with the client seated. Measure downward from the centre of the tape at waist to the chair, following the curve of the figure. Subtract two inches from this measurement and mark the resulting measurement in the space for Length Back Bones on Order Form.
Add 1½ inches to the Length Back Bones Measurement and give this total as the length Cloth at Back. On a man's support there is no advantage in extending the cloth at back more than 1½ inches below the back bones. The average back depth for a man is 8 inches.
The Hipbone to Hipbone measurement is needed only for the Spencerflex. Instructions are given on page 144.
For Extra Top Measurement see instructions " To Control, Outline and Measure a Man for Dorso-lumbar Support," page 239.